Premo   Frost #5310 with Bleach and Studio by Sculpey Frost are the clearest  of  the translucent clays. They are followed by Kato Polyclay, Sculpey  III,  Premo #5310, Fimo Soft #014, Fimo Classic #00 and lastly Cernit  #010  White Translucent.
Pardo  Artist is another translucent clay.  Ladysaotome from PCC has been   experimenting with  Pardo trans and Pinata inks and the results are just  beautiful.
She also thought that this post that had some translucent experiments would be helpful.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11boldstreet/sets/72157625207679151/
Premo Translucent and Sculpey III are the most amber colored of the brands. Kato and Fimo clays are the whitest in color.
    The tiny circular 'moon' shapes you sometimes see in the layers of    translucent clay are caused by a condition called 'plaquing'. Fimo Clay    has the most plaquing of all the brands of polymer clay. Kato clay the    least. Moisture on your hands and over working the clays will cause   more  plaquing.
Adding    tiny amounts of opaque clay will help to reduce plaquing. Think pea    sized amounts with a whole block of clay. White and beige are good    candidates for this technique.
    Translucent clays start yellowing very easily with heat. Baking    directly on a ceramic tile or metal cookie sheet will cause translucent    clays to scorch quickly. You can protect the clay either by tenting   your  pieces while baking or by burying them in a bed of cornstarch.   Leigh from PCC also reminded me that we must watch that the temperature   isn't too high.
Translucent clay bakes up clearer when layered over raw clay, more so than over baked clay.
   All  translucent clays can be tinted with alcohol inks. Coat the clay   with  ink and let dry a minute or two, so the alcohol has time to    dissipate. Then mix the clay until you have the look you want. Gloves    are a good idea here unless you don't mind colored hands!
Dust         your fingers with cornstarch to avoid leaving fingerprints on    polymer clay beads.. You can also rub it on raw      clay surfaces to    remove fingerprints that did end up getting left behind.
Cornstarch         makes an excellent release agent for rubber stamps, texture    plates, polymer clay molds, etc. Dust lightly on the surface you don't    want your clay      to stick to. The powder will wash off with water    after baking.
Poke   your bead piercing wire into some cornstarch before you pierce your   beads and you will find it enters the raw clay much easier.
Baking  your beads in and under cornstarch is a great way to protect and  support fragile beads during baking. A covering layer of cornstarch will  also keep the color of your beads brighter and more true. However,  don't rest raw beads in cornstarch for too long before baking. The  powder may leach some of the plasticizers from the clay and cause  weakness.
Mixing  things into translucent clay is half the fun.  You can mix glitters,  colored powders, and other forms of clay. I have even heard of spices  being used as coloring agents, which creates a lovely, natural look and  smells great while baking.  Be careful when using glitters and makeup  powders to make sure that everything you're using is safe for use in the  oven.  Consult labels and your craft store carefully before proceeding.
Sanding  and polishing translucent clay gives it amazing depth, and if there are  other colors of clay or glitter swirled inside, you can make convincing  fax agate, opal and other gemstones - perfect for designing your own  jewelry, adding to mosaics or using as decoration.
 
 
1 comment:
Interesting information. Your clay work is awesome, especially the Lizard Wizard!!
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